What you need to know about your skin - part 2
The signs of disturbed skin barrier
When disturbed and compromised, the skin is no longer able to protect the body from environmental exposures and moisture loss, and the consequences are usually revealed by reactions such as excessive oiliness or dryness, stinging, itching, flakiness, roughness, and bumpy flare-ups.
Inflammation and redness signal that our body is trying to fix the problem with increased blood supply to repair, destroy ‘invaders’, or eliminate toxins. When an otherwise normal and healthy reaction becomes chronic, it can spiral out of control, leading to several skin disorders such as acne, allergic reactions, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and photo-damage.
Our skin barrier can fail due to both inherent and external factors. Examples include genetic factors, sensitivity, allergies, ageing, disease, and psychological stress.
Some external factors, such as irritation, seasonal influences, environmental conditions (e.g., cold or heat exposure, sun damage, wind burn, frostbite), ambient low humidity, and diet, affect the stratum corneum lipids, and any deficiency in these lipids can result in dehydration.
The use of solvents, detergents, excessive use of water and soap, and other irritating chemicals can break down the protective lipid layer and increase trans-epidermal water loss by altering the skin's natural water-holding capacity.
“The skin is connected to the brain via the nervous system as well as by the endocrine and immune systems. Due to these close connections, human skin is acutely sensitive to a variety of psychological/emotional states.
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A quick look at psychological stress
If we’ve known for a long time that chronic stress is detrimental to our health, what is less known is that there is a direct relationship between our stress levels and the health of our skin.
There is a field of medicine called Psychodermatology, which acknowledges the links between dermal and emotional health.
When we become aware of a problem, feel the itchiness and see the symptoms and unsightly blemishes break out, which are particularly alarming when they are on our face or other visible part of our bodies, our stress simultaneously arises.
Essential oils are proving to be an ideal way to treat stress-related skin problems because they not only work on the skin but also on the stress which aggravates the issue.
The diagram below illustrates the connection between stress, skin, and the brain, and provides examples of how some essential oils can influence this skin-brain axis.
What are PDE4 and how can essential oils help?
PDE4 enzymes help regulate inflammation in your body, but when the skin barrier is compromised, they can become overactive, leading to conditions like eczema or psoriasis. A clinical study reveals that Sandalwood essential oil not only helps calm eczema and psoriasis through anti-inflammatory actions but also soothes the brain through anti-stress effects.
The Endocannabinoid System, CB-2 receptors and essential oils
The Endocannabinoid System (ECS) is a neuro-immuno-psychological network that regulates our capacity for relaxation and the quality of our sleep, eating, and memory. It also plays a major role in skin homeostasis, influencing skin health in several ways by:
Modulating allergic response
Mediating and processing skin responses like pain and itching
Exerting and stimulating, through activation of CB-1 and CB-2, potent analgesic effects on receptors at sensory nerve terminals and on inflammatory cells
An example of such activation is beta-caryophyllene, the main component of Copaiba essential oil, which activates CB-2 receptors, which in turn induce analgesic and anti-inflammatory actions in both the skin and the brain.
A little word about Cortisol
Cortisol, the stress hormone, can also affect the skin barrier, leading to inflammation, irritation, and itchiness.
Here again, clinical studies reveal that Sandalwood oil inhibits the enzyme that converts cortisone into cortisol in the skin. Lavender oil has also been shown to have broad effects on skin and brain pathways, promoting relaxation and being an effective anti-inflammatory for irritation. Limonene and camphor, the main components of White Camphor essential oil, also show similar effects for irritation and itchiness.
By leveraging the dermal-olfactory pathway through the application of calming, relaxing essential oils, the impact of stress can be reduced, as it connects to the limbic/emotional region of the brain.
A quick look at ageing
Ageing is a natural process, but we also want to delay its effects. The main signs of skin ageing are fine lines, dryness, loss of elasticity and abnormal pigmentation.
The skin loses elasticity and firmness due to the loss of collagen and elastin, which make up the bulk of the dermis. The skin becomes less moist and supple and loses some of the underlying fat that cushions it against injury.
Glandular activity slows, and the skin becomes less moistened by sweat and less lubricated by sebum. Moreover, the circulatory system may be less efficient in providing nutrients and removing toxins.
Ageing can be addressed with essential oils by promoting antioxidant activity or inhibiting enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
A quick look at sun damage
We all know that sun damage from excess sunlight - especially in the UVA and UVB ranges – is detrimental to the skin, causing sunburn, photo-ageing and DNA damage to skin cells, which can potentially lead to skin cancer.
Yet moderate sun exposure is vital for vitamin D production and our psychophysiological well-being, both of which positively impact our immune system. So we have to find the right strategy to reap the benefits whilst avoiding the adverse effects.
Luckily, nature provides solutions, and we can protect ourselves from excessive sun exposure with mineral sunscreens.
About oxidation and oxidative stress
Oxidants, also known as free radicals, are unstable small molecules because they are missing an electron. So they aggressively try to “steal” electrons from other molecules to become stable. In this way, free radicals can quickly damage and kill healthy cells.
Oxidative stress occurs constantly, but our bodies produce abundant antioxidant enzymes to neutralise free radicals. However, as we age, the production and activity of these enzymes decrease significantly.
Oxidative stress can be countered by either using antioxidants or by activating antioxidant enzymes.
Which essential oils can help?
Sun damage
Sun damage can be mitigated by applying antioxidant-rich essential oils and vegetable oils.
Antioxidant essential oils that can protect cells from free radical damage ('free-radical scavengers') or prevent or slow down cellular damage include:
Lavender
Manuka
Patchouli
Myrrh
Rose otto
Sandalwood
inhibiting the activity of enzymes
By inhibiting collagenase and/or elastase, more collagen and elastin will remain in the dermis.
Essential oils that inhibit elastase include:
Black Pepper
Jasmine absolute
Palmarosa
Grapefruit
Lemon
Mandarin
Rose absolute
Helichrysum
STRESS
Essential oils considered to be relaxing, anxiety-relieving, soothing, and sedative which could potentially alleviate and reduce psychophysiologic skin conditions, these include:
Bergamot
Cedarwood
Roman chamomile
Lavender
Marjoram
Melissa
Neroli
Sweet orange
Petitgrain
Rose
Sandalwood
Mandarin
Mandarin Petitgrain
Tangerine
Ylang ylang
Vetiver
Some combinations to consider
For calming stress related flare ups: Camphor, Petitgrain, Lavender, Neroli and Sandalwood
For antioxidant benefits: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Rose otto, Manuka in Olive and Tamanu oil
For skin barrier integrity: Tangerine, Coriander, Palmarosa, Rose absolute, in Black seed oil
For itchy skin and pruritus :Sandalwood, Palmarosa, German or Roman Chamomile and Patchouli
For sun damage: Lavender, German Chamomile, Elemi in Aloe Vera gel
To summarise…
When addressing specific skin conditions of clients, it’s essential to also consider their emotional wellbeing. In my practice, I choose essential oils that not only provide relief or alleviate physical symptoms but also address the underlying stress and anxiety and reduce the adverse impact that stress has on the skin.
References
Books
If you want to read more about Psychodermatology and Aromatherapy dermatology I highly recommend Janetta Bensouilah’s & Philippa Buck’s book Aromadermatology: Aromatherapy in the Treatment and Care of Common Skin Conditions
Other books I recommend are:
Essential Oil Safety, 2nd edition. Tisserand R, Young R 2014 Churchill Livingstone, Edinburgh.
Aromatherapeutic Blending: Essential Oils in Synergy, Jennifer Peace Rhind,Jessica Kingsley Publishers.
Research
Sharma M, Levenson C, Browning JC, Becker EM, Clements I, Castella P, Cox ME. East Indian Sandalwood Oil Is a Phosphodiesterase Inhibitor: A New Therapeutic Option in the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Disease. Front Pharmacol. 2018 Mar 9;9:200. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2018.00200. PMID: 29593534; PMCID: PMC5854648.
Sharma, M., Levenson, C., Clements, I. et al (2017). East Indian sandalwood oil (EISO) alleviates inflammatory and proliferative pathologies of psoriasis. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 8(March), 1–13. http://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2017.00125
Moy RL, Levenson C. Sandalwood Album Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Oct;10(10):34-39. Epub 2017 Oct 1. PMID: 29344319; PMCID: PMC5749697.
Choe, S. J., Kim, D., Kim, E. J. et al (2018). Psychological stress deteriorates skin barrier function by activating 11 β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 and the HPA axis. Scientific Reports, 8(1). http://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-018-24653-z
Choi, E. H., Brown, B. E., Crumrine, D. et al (2005). Mechanisms by which psychologic stress alters cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 124, 587–595. http://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23589.x
Fukada, M., Kano, E., & Miyoshi, M. (2012). Effect of “rose essential oil” inhalation on stress- induced skin-barrier disruption in rats and humans. Chemical Senses, 37(4), 347–356. http:// doi.org/10.1093/chemse/bjr108
Gelmini, F., Beretta, G., Anselmi, C. et al (2013). GC-MS profiling of the phytochemical constituents of the oleoresin from Copaifera langsdorffii Desf. and a preliminary in vivo evaluation of its antipsoriatic effect. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 440, 170–178. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.08.021
Gertsch, J., Leonti, M., Raduner, S. et al (2008). Beta-caryophyllene is a dietary cannabinoid. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 105(26), 9099–9104. http://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.0803601105
Grunebaum, L. D., Murdock, J., Castanedo-Tardan, M. P., & Baumann, L. S. (2011). Effects of lavender olfactory input on cosmetic procedures. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 10(2), 89–93. http://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00554.x
Afaq F, Abu Zaid M, Khan N et al 2009 Protective effect of pomegranate derived products on UVB- mediated damage in human reconstituted skin. Experimental Dermatology 18:553-561 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3004287/
Baylac S, Racine P 2004 Inhibition of human leukocyte elastase by natural fragrant extracts of aromatic plants. The International Journal of Aromatherapy 14:179-182 http:// www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0962456204000943
Etienne JJ, Pham Duc Tl, Simonet L et al 2000 New and unexpected cosmetic properties of perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and fragrant compounds. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 22:317-328 http:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18503419
Fraternale, D., Flamini, G., & Ascrizzi, R. (2019). In vitro anticollagenase and antielastase activities of essential oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(10), 1041–1046. https://doi.org/10.1089/jmf.2019.0054
Mori M, Okeda N, Kato Y et al 2002 Inhibition of elastase activity by essential oils in vitro. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 1:183-187 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17147537
Romana-Souza, B., & Monte-Alto-Costa, A. (2019). Olive oil inhibits ageing signs induced by chronic stress in ex vivo human skin via inhibition of extracellular-signal-related kinase 1/2 and c-JUN pathways. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 156–163. https:// doi.org/10.1111/ics.12520
Sivamani P, Singaravelu G, Thiagarajan V et al 2012 Comparative molecular docking analysis of essential oil constituents as elastase inhibitors. Bioinformation 8:457-460 http:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3374355/
Wei, A., & Shibamoto, T. (2007). Antioxidant activities and volatile constituents of various essential oils. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 55(5), 1737–1742. https://doi.org/ 10.1021/jf062959x
